Hiiiii from Paris. And happy Thinking Out Loud Thursday! I would like to apologize in advance for the lack of pictures here. It’s pretty, I swear, but I’m a little bit in this-is-so-new-and-I’m-just-getting-from-point-A-to-point-B mode. So, there’s a lot of text and I’m sorry, but I have so much to say because, again, this is so new. I’m not going to do much more intro-ing because there’s a lot of context below. Let’s get into what’s happening in my life and mind this week! (P.S. I will reply to all your comments as soon as possible. I read them and I love them, but I haven’t sat down to do more than write for the blog forever.)
1.) Sickness update: I still cough a lot, but I feel better and I can sleep at night. So, I’m completely annoying in class and I go through almost an entire little box of Ricola every day, but I guess the cough just has to run its course. Also, upon Google-translation, I discovered that the odd flavor I’m working with now is elderberry flower. It was all the store had, and it’s not bad, but I don’t think we have very many elderberry-flavored things in the U.S.
2.) From my very first day wandering around Paris on my own, I’ve understood that going out in public is basically an exercise in silence and independence. I don’t mean that in an antisocial way or an “I-hate-Parisians” way. Rather, we just don’t understand each other 90% of the time.
Everyone at the UChicago Center takes French here. For those of us who are beginners, at least, it’s not a traditional beginner language class that just teaches you how to conjugate every verb, but is instead focused on useful conversation and daily interaction. Obviously, the goal is to make getting around easier. While I’ll happily exchange the requisite cheery “Bonjour” with anyone, right now I’m totally taking the self-scan option at any store kind enough to offer it.
3.) Speaking of classes, let’s talk class structure. There are four programs happening at the UChicago Center in Paris while I’m here: European Civilization (in English – that’s me!), European Civilization (in French), Classics of Social and Political Thought, and Neuroscience. All of us are mixed up into different classes for French based on our French background (so I am in the most basic). Based on our programs, we take three other classes throughout the nine weeks. So, I’ll take three European civilization (art, history, culture, whatever the teacher pleases) classes while I’m here.
The weird part is that we take them one by one. So, I’m taking a class on the Renaissance and Baroque for three weeks, a class on the Enlightenment for three weeks, and a class on nineteenth- and twentieth-century Europe for three weeks. There are positives and negatives to this. If you hate a class – I’m such an optimist, right? – it’s over quickly. You don’t have to worry about balancing a bunch of classes. It’s just one intensive class, plus French. (That’s not to say French isn’t a real thing, but it is a shorter class with a light workload.) You only have one final/project at a time. However, you spend a little over two hours a day in one class and then you have to do the homework the same day because you’re coming back to the same class the next day. It’s like sprints or really heavy lifting: a good way to burn out. At least you don’t have that much time to sprint through.
So, it’s a little over three hours of class with Civ and French on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, plus Civ and a conversational outing with a French university student on Thursday, plus sometimes day trips on Friday. I think I have three or four free Fridays while I’m here.
4.) I knew my room would be tiny, but I didn’t know how tiny. The bed doesn’t come up to my knee. I would be amazed if my bathroom is bigger than an airplane bathroom (and there’s a shower in it). We had a meeting with a residence hall director and she said someone would come in once a week to clean our bathrooms since we all have “luxury rooms”, and we all chuckled a little at that. Obviously, it’s livable, but luxury is a bit of an exaggeration.
5.) Food is a pain here. That’s all. Okay, no it’s not. First, there’s the general fact that it’s a city and grocery shopping in a city is a pain. You can’t get more than you can carry (or, in my case, fit in a mini fridge) because you will inevitably be walking or taking public transportation to get back home.
Second, there’s the fact that some things that seem like obvious staples to me just aren’t common here, examples being broccoli, turkey, cottage cheese, squash, Greek yogurt, and nut butters other than Skippy and Nutella. I had some warning on the last one, but the first five? And if I want something packaged, I’m taking a huge chance because the brands are all different.
Third, when you finally do get the food, you have to lug it, plus dish towels, dish soap, utensils, and cookware to the communal kitchen that someone else is hopefully not using and then clean it all up and lug it all back to your room.
Fourth, right now I am resorting to restaurant meals for lunch (until I have time to do some cooking this weekend), and everything is bread or noodles. I know everyone says Americans eat too much meat, but I thrive on a huge piece of chicken/steak/salmon and a lot of vegetables. I thought it was fake that Parisians walk around eating giant baguettes, but that is actually a very common sight. Sometimes with a slice of ham or cheese shoved in the middle, but it’s pretty much just a baguette.
6.) Along with the dietary flexibility, I’m trying to be schedule-flexible. See, much like in the U.K., gyms don’t open here until around 8:00am, and I need to head to class by about 9:00am. The YMCA by my house opens at 5:30am on weekdays and the first classes at most studios I’ve been to in the U.S. are between 5:00am and 6:00am. Way different. Also, I live in a post-WWI building where you can hear everything, which means a lot of in-room workouts that I could do at modern hotels are not an option here.
So, I’ve been getting up around 6:00am and doing as much reading for that night as possible before I get ready, eat breakfast, and take a walk or do some serious stretching to get me through class. Between the morning reading and what I can get done during the extra hour of my lunch break, I generally don’t have a ton to do in the evening, so I feel free to work out after class (I think I found a gym), shower, eat dinner, and blog, finish up work, or chill a little.
I can’t say I love the new schedule, but I don’t hate it and it’s only for nine weeks.
7.) Speaking of chilling, I truly don’t know why I didn’t give myself time to watch TV during my first two and a half years of school. I mean, I do. I was a little too school-crazy, but whatever. And I’m all for book-reading, but when that’s what you do for homework, it’s not always that appealing.
Netflix is now my friend. What is not my friend is that Netflix is different in every country and France doesn’t have The West Wing, which is optimal background noise for falling asleep. However, if you want a quick and funny show, I just discovered The Good Place and enjoy that. Also, a bunch of people told me to watch Jane the Virgin last year and I didn’t because I wasn’t watching TV. It was one of the few things that popped up on French Netflix, though, and I really like it.
8.) The time difference really messes with my head here. All my favorite sporting events happen while I’m asleep. I’m about to have (or have already had) lunch when my family is just waking up. I think I kind of skipped jet lag because I was on a bus and able to nap all the time, so that wasn’t a problem, but now it’s just the weirdness of communicating with people in the U.S. that throws me off. I’m always thinking, “What do you mean it’s 3:00pm there? I’m ready for bed.”
9.) I’m trying to figure out where all to travel while I’m here. On the weekends when I have excursions on Fridays, I’ll mostly stay in Paris… and maybe take a trip to London or so? I liked London a lot and I have a friend there I want to meet up with. I’m planning on a trip to Spain to visit a friend who’s studying abroad there, and after that… I’m not sure. I have a four-day weekend that I was planning to use on Greece, but one of the other girls in the program just suggested Morocco for that weekend. I know everyone does Amsterdam, but I really couldn’t care less about the Red Light District, so I don’t know that I want to prioritize that. Milan? Brussels? Zurich? HELP ME.
10.) And now I want to leave you with some of my favorite recipes + reads from the week:
- The addictive veggies I crave. –> Apple Cider Vinegar Roasted Brussels Sprouts
- Please send me this in Paris please please please. –> Paleo Deep Dish Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cookie
- Cozy fall food! –> Pumpkin Turkey Meatballs with Creamy Harvest Tomato Sauce
- Do it for you. –> How I Learned to Keep Going When Everything in Me Wanted to Quit
- “Just show up and try.” –> On Feeling Like an Imposter and Doing Things That Scare Us
Christiane says
Being from Germany, I have travelled extensively in Europe and feel like I should finally take the plunge and comment ;-). A good thing to remember is that the weather will be much nicer in Southern Europe which is why that is a good option at this time of the year. Barcelona, Madrid and Lisbon are great, the same goes for Rome. The Côte d’Azur also has a lot to offer. Venice is beautiful and not that crowded at this time of the year, you could probably combine it with Milan (which I liked but not that much). Then I think Berlin and Vienna are really worth a trip. Eastern Europe is pretty cheap once you are there and I very much enjoyed Budapest and Prague. In December, Germany is well known for its Christmas markets (e.g. Nuremberg or Munich). I enjoyed Amsterdam although I completed skipped the red light district – and I liked it better than Brussels. Just some thoughts!
EllenSlater says
Ahhh THANK YOU. I’m planning Milan because I have a family friend there, as well as San Sebastian and I think Berlin and Morocco. I’ve heard all about Germany’s Christmas markets, so I definitely need to find one of those. I only have four free travel weekends, so that covers it. I’m going to hit Barcelona and Rome after I’m done with school!
Wow, you are amazing for dealing with all this new stuff on your own. I dream of going to Paris someday.
So much new stuff! I hope you get here – I bet you’d love it. It’s beautiful!
You are in Paris. Appreciate the opportunity. Sorry, but life is really hard for some people right now (hello Puerto Rico. Plus- you are in Paris!! Eat the bread & amazing cheese even if it isn’t ideal- it’s food, & usually of pretty darn good quality in France.
I am extremely grateful to have this opportunity, but that doesn’t mean it’s without its ups and downs. It wouldn’t be authentic to write about how everything is perfect, and I choose to write about how I’m actually experiencing my life, which is as a transition right now, not a magical fairytale.
I believe that no one should have to preface their own experiences – positive or negative – with, “I know other people are suffering, but…”. We’re all dealing with our own versions of tough stuff. I fully admit that my digestive discomforts and difficulty communicating are not remotely bad in comparison to losing one’s home or family, but that doesn’t mean these are not things someone choosing to travel here would want to consider. That is, I’m not complaining just to complain or to tell you my #firstworldproblems. Rather, I’m sharing my experience in hopes that someone might learn from it, and so that I can remember it for a time when I hopefully come back.
It’ll take about a week or so to get over the culture shock (Sara can suck it, yes the world is in a rough place right now, but that is a douche move to talk about it when you are being open). Once you figure everything out, you will be fine and you will love it!
You’re the best. Thank you. That’s all. And it’s super pretty here and I wish you were here to tell me all the architectural stuff I’m sure I’m missing.
Girl, you are doing an AWESOME job at adjusting. Travelling and living somewhere new is hard – but you’re making it work. I’m sure within a few weeks, you’ll have everything sorted and it’ll feel more like home.
Thanks so much! I’m already feeling much better about things!
I’m just so amazed you took the leap of bravery to get out there and study abroad; I’m not sure I would have been brave enough. You’re going to become a pro at navigating the food situation, relaxing, and exploring. The amazing thing is that if you want to go to another town to explore it’s not that difficult to take the train there and come back the same day. I think it’s incredible that you not only moved to a different place but a place that speaks an entirely different language.
Sometimes I find that you can find normal peanut butter (not the familiar brands we have in the US) but other normal somewhat natural brands in grocery stores in smaller cities? But it is true that cottage cheese doesn’t seem to be as popular in Europe.
You’re so encouraging, Emily! I did find cottage cheese at a British grocery store, but those are few and far between. No big deal, just observing the differences ?
Love, love. love hearing about your experiences. Just an aside. I am sure that I never told your that as a student in Bogotá, Colombia, while riding the city bus back to class after lunch with the family, I barfed in the big plastic bag that I usually used to protect my tote bag from the torrential downpours. Now that’s one run-on sentence.
Oh my that sounds like an adventure! It was nice talking to you the other night!